Catherine Travels, June 18th

Today felt more like some immersion in a real China, not a round of tourist sites. We did a 'city tour' of Xi'an - walked the old Ming dynasty city wall, climbed the city bell and drum towers, visited the Big Wild Goose pagoda, and wandered through the city's old and large mosque. We also spent a long time in the city's excellent provincial museum.

Some observations: there is still a lot of smoking here, but less than 10 years ago and the larger restaurants (or maybe just those aimed at tourists) have non-smoking sections. There is a lot of hawking and spitting as well - it makes me think there must be some sort of cultural link to Nevada.

The most distinctive part of the day was the tone of the historical information, both from our guide Sunny's stories and histories, and the English labels in the museum. There is great importance placed on a solid line of control over the bulk of this land mass, especially linked to the Han Chinese ethnic group. Those other people are 'ethnic minorities', quaint and even respected, but definitely not in charge. It may be partly due to the awkwardness of translation, but the sense of exceptionalism is as grating here as it is in America.

The theme continues as the museum emphasizes Chinese firsts: the oldest 'ape-man' in Asia at 1.15 million years (Homo erectus, perhaps?). And more recently, the first paper, the first gunpowder, the writing style that not just Chinese but Japanese descened from. These two themes - cultural integrity and being the best, were repeated over and over, in versions of, 'This glazed pottery is best example of refined and glorious cultural tradition through history.'

And it is true that the museum shows a complex and technologically sophisticated community life 8000 years ago. As well, there is a continuity to practices like burying terracotta figures, although the dynasty after the First Emperor buried his soldiers, buried statues and figures that were smaller and fewer in number, but just as vivid and evocative.

A good story from today's visit to the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. The name comes from a visit by an out-of-town monk, possibly from India. He was of the Hinayana branch of Buddhism, and a meat eater. The local monks are from the Mahayana branch, and vegetarian. The visiting monk was desparate for meat, so he prayed to the Buddha. At that point, a wild goose feel right out of the sky at his feet. The visiting monk was so overwhelmed at the power of his holy site that he converted to the Mahayana branch, and dedicated himself to building this lovely pagoda.

We're back onto an overnight train after our two days in Xi'an, onward to Lanzhou.